Delhi is starting to grow on us, initially we loathed it when we first arrived - but I suspect a lot of that was down to culture shock. It's quite a nice place really, but not for the faint-hearted - and I could never get used to all the pollution. It's how I would imagine a 16th century London to be! Anyway, at the hotel we got talking to two other backpackers somehow - turned out they're from London and in India for 10 days before jetting off to Thailand for five weeks. It was so nice to see a friendly face after three weeks of being stared at by Indian men - we haven't met near enough backpackers yet. Their names are Jon and Fred and they're slightly younger than us, and completely and utterly off their rockers. We ended up drinking beer on the balcony till the early hours of the morning - and they made an impulsive decision to follow us to Amritsar and McLeod Ganj!
So Thursday morning found us all slightly dishevelled, sleepless, in a state of mild panic at New Delhi train station trying to get tickets for Fred and Jon. The tourist department didn't open till 8am, and the train was at 7.20am. After asking at about 2,000 different counters we finally managed to score them a pair of tickets, but it was a bit hit and miss! The train stations here are something else, dogs wandering around, people asleep or eating on the floor. We're glad that Jon and Fred were there with us, they kept all the weirdos at bay!
Caught the train to Amritsar - they're really odd - a bit like an aeroplane - they bring you tea and food throughout the journey and you don't pay for it. Tasted like aeroplane food too.
Amritsar was lovely - a world apart from Delhi and Rajasthan. I suspect a lot of the inner release we are experiencing is mostly due to having our freedom back - we are no longer under the rules and regulations of the driver. We can do what we want, eat when we want, see what we like. We visited the Golden Temple, and as usual, created a mob scene with people taking pictures of us. We had to be asked to leave! The Golden Temple is wonderful - smaller than I expected, but there's something peaceful and ethereal about it.
Most memorable experience in Amritsar was probably the restaurant we went to in the evening. I think it was called Indipuri or something like that, vegetarian food - very good and very cheap. One of the waiters was CONVINCED that Fred was Brad Pitt, much to our hilarity. It took a bit of persuading to convince him that he wasn't. We've got a photo of (ahem) Mr Pitt and the waiter for our journals!
We were only in Amritsar for one night (there isn't really all that much to do there), then caught the bus up to McLeod Ganj. Buses in India are a real experience - needs to be seen to be believed. If the buses are full, it's not out of the ordinary for people to climb up on top and hitch a ride there. Our clothes were FILTHY when we arrived - but hey, it was an experience - and a six hour journey only cost us about 1 pound fifty!
We're now in McLeod Ganj, last night we went to a restaurant in the town centre. Turns out Pierce Brosnan eats there when he's in town! Richard Gere is also a regular visitor around here. Will have to keep our eyes peeled. I wonder if Fred (Brad Pitt) will get spotted too??
I don't think I've ever been so happy and chilled out in my life. It's so peaceful here compared to Rajasthan and Delhi, with much less hassle. This morning sitting on the balcony outside our hotel room we saw an eagle flying overhead, and an otter running through the grass. We've just had a Canadian breakfast at the Green Hotel, and plan to walk around town to check out the Tibetian shops, partake in tea with the Dalai Lama ("don't you know who I am??") and generally just soak in the atmosphere. I want to move here!
We're here for 2 more nights, maybe longer - undecided as yet. We'll update as and when we have news.
Missing you all.
Love and tofu breakfasts,
Caroline xx
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