FREE TIBET

We've been in McLeod Ganj for a total of four days now, and it is nowhere near long enough. I cannot possibly even HOPE to convey into words how beautiful this place is, how peaceful and majestic. It is a much needed contradiction to the hustle and bustle of Rajasthan. Here people smile at you in the street and say hello, monks pass you by with a nod of the head, dogs are friendly and roam free in the town with coloured bandanas tied round their necks, it is perfectly acceptable to give sweets to children. It's how I imagine life must have been in England once, a long time ago. Lydia and I are so happy and serene, if it wasn't for my family and loved ones in the UK I would quite happily settle here! We've decided to spend two more nights here before heading off to Varanasi, then onwards to Puri for a couple of days before heading South. I'm not looking forward to leaving - I can completely relate with what it says in the guidebook about people finding it hard to leave.

We've spent our time here exploring the town and roaming the mountains. Yesterday Lydia and I visited the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government's headquarters. We saw their temple which was absolutely beautiful. It was nothing like the ornate temples of Rajasthan with all their carved marbles and shrines. Rather it was a wash of colour and light, candles and offerings everywhere. Unfortunately the Dalai Lama wasn't in town, and I'm sure he will be very disappointed that he missed out on meeting us! There is a cafe in the temple grounds which the Tibetan monks frequent to discuss and debate points and principles, the arguments are apparently very animated, with much hand slapping and feet stamping to emphasise a point! If you're in the area, try the carrot cake. Divine!

We went to the Tibet Museum (www.thetibetmuseum.org) - a heart-rending exhibition of text, black and white photographs and video clips documenting the history of Tibet and the exile of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government. In 1949 the Communist Government of China came into power, and decided to liberate the Tibetans. This consisted of sending the People's Liberation Army marching through Tibet, killing 1.2 million Tibetans and sending countless others to forced- labour camps (where they were tortured). Temples were desecrated and 60% of their holy texts destroyed. In 1950 the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government, fearing for the lives of their people, set off over the Himalayas, a journey that took 15 weeks to reach the safe haven of Dharamsala. To date 250,000 Tibetans have left their home to relocate all over the world. Even now, they are unable to return home, the Dalai Lama is in constant talks with China to try and resolve the situation - but it is not looking good.

There were two photographs in particular that had me in tears. One was of a young girl and her father walking over the Himalayas. To me, it seemed as if they are at the start of a long journey to gain the freedom to express their political and religious beliefs. The girl must be about 6 years old, and to have to face the hardship of such a long trek broke my heart. I cannot imagine being able to survive such a journey myself. The other photograph was of a young girl who had successfully survived the trip - but was suffering severe frostbite and being treated for it. She must have been about 8 years old, and in the picture she is screaming in agony. Even thinking of it now brings tears to my eyes.

On a brighter note - today we took a rickshaw up the mountains and then walked along the most dangerous pathway EVER high up in the mountains, lots of loose slate and at parts so narrow you could only walk single file whilst trying not to look down! All this effort was to reach the most beautiful waterfall I've ever seen. Admittedly, it's the only waterfall I've ever seen, but that's just nitpicking. Fred, Jon, Lydia and I all dove in for a swim - it was absolutely freezing - but so refreshing. After weeks of being ill on and off it was great to blow away all the cobwebs. I sat there for 20 minutes speaking to nobody, just taking in the view, feet dangling in the stream. Anytime I am down all I need do is think back to that day, and I will smile.

We were adopted by a dog today, who followed us up the mountain and guarded our bags whilst we bathed in the waterfall! From this day forth he shall be called Scratchy.

I have to get off now, the internet cafe is closing. In short the rest of our news - the boys are leaving tomorrow, and will be sorely missed. But they will have a fantastic time in Thailand and I look forward to hearing all about their travels.

Keep safe - photos coming soon!

Caroline xx